From the Treatment Room: "Does everyone need to exfoliate?"

We tend to think of exfoliation simply as removing dead skin cells from the surface. And while that is part of what it does, exfoliation can offer benefits beyond simply making the skin feel smoother. Depending on the type of exfoliation, it can help improve texture and luminosity, keep pores clear, support skin renewal, and address some of the visible changes we associate with aging and sun damage. The key isn't simply to exfoliate more.  It's to understand why you're exfoliating, choose the right type for your skin, and use it in a way that improves the skin without compromising its barrier.

Our Skin Already Exfoliates Naturally

Our skin is constantly renewing itself.  New skin cells are formed in the deeper layers of the epidermis and gradually move toward the surface. As they reach the outermost layer, they eventually shed through a natural process called desquamation. So technically, our skin already knows how to exfoliate itself.  But this process changes as we age.  When we are younger, the cycle of producing new cells, moving them toward the surface, and eventually shedding them tends to happen more efficiently. As we get older, cell turnover generally slows. Cells can remain at the surface longer, and the skin may not shed them as efficiently as it once did.

As a result, the surface of the skin can begin to look duller and feel rougher. Texture can become more noticeable, and the fresh, luminous quality we associate with younger skin may become less apparent. Slower epidermal renewal can also contribute to an uneven-looking complexion. Sun exposure and dryness can further affect the way skin cells mature and shed.  This is one of the reasons I think exfoliation can become particularly beneficial as we age. Gentle, appropriate exfoliation can help loosen and remove cells that are ready to shed, revealing the fresher cells underneath and helping the surface look smoother, brighter, and more even.

Certain exfoliating acids can offer additional benefits beyond surface smoothing, which is why I think of them not simply to remove dead skin, but as treatment ingredients that can be used to support skin renewal and address some of the visible changes we see with age.

Exfoliation Is About More Than Removing Dead Skin

When we gently encourage the removal of cells that are ready to shed, the immediate result is often skin that feels smoother and looks brighter. But certain exfoliating acids can do more than that. Regular, controlled use of some acids can help improve uneven texture and pigmentation and support epidermal renewal. Certain AHAs have also been studied for their effects on some of the visible signs of photoaging. This is why I look at exfoliating acids as more than something we use simply to remove dead skin from the surface.  Used appropriately, they can be treatment ingredients.

Physical exfoliation has a place as well. It works differently from chemical exfoliation, helping to physically lift away cells from the surface and leaving the skin feeling immediately smoother and more polished. I don't think we necessarily need to choose between the two.  When appropriate for the skin, physical and chemical exfoliation can complement each other beautifully.

Physical and Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients such as acids and enzymes to loosen the bonds between cells so they can shed more easily. Depending on the ingredient, chemical exfoliation can also be selected to address concerns such as clogged pores, uneven texture, dullness, and pigmentation. Physical exfoliation removes surface cells through gentle friction. This can be done with a scrub, cloth, or another type of exfoliating tool.

In a perfect world, when the skin is healthy and tolerates exfoliation well, I like incorporating both gentle physical and chemical exfoliation into a skincare routine. For some people, that may mean using a gentle physical exfoliant once a week and a chemical exfoliant once a week. Some skin may tolerate more, some less, and some skin conditions may not tolerate exfoliation at all. What else you're using in your routine also matters.  The goal is to support the skin's natural renewal process while maintaining a healthy, functioning skin barrier. 

Not All Acids Do the Same Thing

Glycolic Acid - AHA

Glycolic acid has a smaller molecular size than many other exfoliating acids, which allows it to penetrate the skin more readily.  This can make it very effective, but it can also make it more stimulating or irritating for some skin types.  It is an effective surface exfoliant and can be helpful for rough texture, dullness, uneven pigmentation, and some of the visible signs of sun damage and aging.

Lactic Acid -AHA

Lactic Acid has a slightly larger molecular size than glycolic acid, so it tends to penetrate more gradually.  In addition to helping loosen the bonds between cells at the surface, lactic acid has humectant properties, meaning it can help attract and retain water.  That makes it an interesting option for skin that is dry, dull, or rough but would still benefit from gentle renewal.

Mandelic Acid - AHA

Mandelic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid and penetrates more slowly.  Because of this, some skin may find it easier to tolerate. It can be useful when we want the benefits of an AHA but don't necessarily want the intensity of glycolic acid.  Again, the formulation, strength, and individual skin all matter.

Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid - PHA

Their larger molecular size means they tend to work more toward the surface and penetrate more slowly. They also have humectant properties, making them particularly interesting when we want to combine gentle exfoliation with hydration. PHAs can be a nice option for skin that doesn't tolerate stronger acids well. 

Salicylic Acid — BHA

What makes salicylic acid different from many other exfoliating acids is that it is oil-soluble, which allows it to work within the follicle as well as at the surface of the skin.  This makes it particularly useful for skin that is prone to clogged pores and blackheads. And while we often associate clogged pores with oily skin, you don’t have to have oily skin to experience them. Dry, normal, and combination skin can develop clogged pores too. Dead skin cells can accumulate within the follicle, mix with sebum, and form a plug regardless of your skin type.  If clogged pores are the primary concern, salicylic acid can be a very useful choice. The important part is looking at the entire skin—not just the clogged pores. Someone with dry skin and clogged pores still needs hydration and moisture, while someone with oily skin may need a completely different approach.

Note: The acids vary in how they work and how readily they penetrate the skin. Glycolic acid tends to be more active and penetrating, while lactic and Mandelic acids generally work more gradually.  Gluconolactone and Lactobionic acid have larger molecular structures and tend to work more toward the surface, making them among the gentler options. Salicylic acid is different because it is oil-soluble, allowing it to work within the follicle, which makes it especially useful for clogged pores.

What About Retinol?

Retinol is often grouped with exfoliating ingredients, but technically it works differently.  While acids and enzymes help loosen and remove dead skin cells, retinol works by influencing the way skin cells develop and turn over. Over time, this can help improve texture, keep pores clearer, even out pigmentation, and support collagen production. Because retinol encourages skin renewal, some of the results can look similar to exfoliation, but it is more of a cell-renewing treatment than an exfoliant.  Retinol can also cause dryness, flaking, or peeling, particularly when you first begin using it or increase its strength or frequency. Although this may look like exfoliation, the peeling is often a sign that the skin is adjusting to the retinoid or becoming irritated—not that the retinol is physically exfoliating the skin.  This is important when deciding how much additional exfoliation your skin needs. You can use chemical and physical exfoliation while using retinol but approach it carefully. If your skin is already peeling, dry, or irritated from retinol, adding more exfoliation can further compromise the skin barrier. In that situation, your skin may need less activity and more hydration and barrier support rather than more exfoliation.

How About Enzymes?

Enzymes offer another form of surface exfoliation.  Ingredients such as papain, derived from papaya, and bromelain, from pineapple, help break down some of the material holding dead cells at the surface. They can leave the skin smoother and brighter and can be useful when gentle surface exfoliation is what we're looking for.

A Closer Look at Physical Exfoliation

Physical exfoliation sometimes gets a bad reputation.  The problem is usually not physical exfoliation itself. It's being too aggressive with it and using the wrong kind. The particles or surface used for exfoliation matter.  A gentle physical exfoliant can help lift away loose surface cells and give the skin an immediate smoothness and polish that is different from what we get from an acid.  And physical exfoliation isn't necessarily the best answer for every concern.  Physical and chemical exfoliation work in different ways, and each can play a beneficial role in a skincare routine.

Your Skin Type Matters

This is where individualized skincare becomes important. An oily skin that develops blackheads and clogged pores may benefit from salicylic acid along with occasional gentle physical exfoliation if the skin tolerates it. A dry skin that is rough and dull may benefit from a gently formulated lactic acid or PHA while still receiving plenty of hydration and lipid support. Skin with uneven texture, pigmentation, or visible sun damage may benefit from an appropriately formulated AHA. Combination skin may not even need the same exfoliation everywhere. Salicylic acid might be useful through an oily, clog-prone T-zone while the drier areas of the face need something entirely different. Normal skin that is already smooth and functioning well may benefit from the brightening, smoothing, and maintenance benefits of gentle exfoliation as well as chemical exfoliation. 

Sensitive Skin—or Is Your Skin Sensitized?

Sensitive skin is generally skin that is more reactive than normal and may be more prone to stinging, burning, itching, or redness when exposed to products, environmental factors, or other triggers.  But there is a difference between having naturally sensitive skin and having skin that is temporarily sensitized. I find that many people describe their skin as sensitive when what they're experiencing is a temporary condition. Over-exfoliating, using too many active ingredients, harsh cleansing, weather changes, sun exposure, and certain professional treatments can disrupt the skin barrier and make otherwise resilient skin suddenly feel sensitive.  This distinction matters when we're talking about exfoliation. If your skin is temporarily sensitized or your barrier is compromised, it doesn't necessarily mean you can never exfoliate. It may simply mean that exfoliation isn't appropriate right now. First, we calm the skin, restore hydration, and support the barrier. Once the skin is functioning well again, we can reassess what type of exfoliation it can tolerate and benefit from.

What About Rosacea?

Rosacea is another term I hear used quite frequently, and I think we need to be careful with it. Skin can become red or reactive for many reasons, and some people assume they have rosacea based on redness, flushing, or sensitivity alone. At the same time, rosacea can sometimes resemble other skin conditions, which is why it isn't something I think we should diagnose ourselves simply by looking in the mirror or comparing our skin to photographs online. Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that should be properly evaluated and diagnosed by a qualified medical professional. For someone with diagnosed rosacea, I would take a much more cautious approach to exfoliation. The priority is keeping the skin calm, maintaining hydration, supporting the skin barrier, and protecting it from known triggers.  It means we need to understand what is happening with the skin before deciding how to treat it. Sometimes the skin is naturally sensitive. Sometimes it has been temporarily sensitized. Sometimes there is an underlying skin condition such as rosacea. And sometimes the skin is simply telling us that we're doing too much.

How Often Should You Exfoliate?

For healthy skin that tolerates exfoliation well, I like the idea of incorporating both methods—perhaps a gentle physical exfoliation once a week and a chemical exfoliation once a week.

But I don't think that needs to become another skincare rule. How often you exfoliate depends on the product, the type of exfoliation, the acid and its concentration, your skin type, the current condition of your skin, and what else you're using. A gentle exfoliating toner isn't the same as a stronger acid treatment or professional peel. A soft, finely textured physical exfoliant isn't the same as aggressively scrubbing the skin. And if you're already using retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, or other active products, your skin may need less exfoliation—not more. Rather than following a rigid schedule, pay attention to what your skin is telling you.  Your skin gives us a lot of information.

Does Everyone Need to Exfoliate?

Technically, no. Our skin has its own natural process of shedding cells. But I also don't think that means we should dismiss the benefits of exfoliation simply because our skin can do some of this work on its own. A well-chosen exfoliant can be a valuable part of a skincare routine. It can help keep pores clear, improve texture and luminosity, and address pigmentation and some of the visible signs of photoaging. And when the skin is healthy and tolerant, combining gentle physical exfoliation with appropriately chosen chemical exfoliation can give us the benefits of both.  

Finding the Right Balance

Exfoliation can be a wonderful way to support skin renewal, improve texture and brightness, and help keep pores clear.  The right type and amount of exfoliation depend on your skin type, its current condition, and what you’re trying to accomplish. If your goal is to encourage renewal, smooth and brighten your skin, address specific concerns and, at the same time, maintain a healthy skin barrier, the key is choosing the right type of exfoliation and knowing how and when to use it.